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Фоторуководство Чистка оконных молдингов(резинок)
Автор:
Bandit, в DIY - Do It Yourself - Сделай сам!
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Автор: MIG
По мотивам поста MrScorp
Как поставить двухцветные светодиоды в Тундру.
Перечитав всю, "Всю!" тему про это на Пикап Клубе (260страниц!!!) для себя понял... Если на машине в штате не горят ДХО (Яркий рыжий свет при запуске двигателя), то все в порядке - просто ставим двухцветные светодиоды и все работает. Если горят - то тут просто поставить двухцветные светодиоды не получится. Все дело в алгоритме работы штатной лампы. В лампе имеются две спирали - яркая (21вт) и для габаритов (5вт).
Империческим путем мне удалось выяснить: Когда двигатель работает, то горят обе спирали. Двигатель запущен, включены габариты - горят обе спирали. Двигатель запущен включен ближний свет - горит спираль габаритов (5вт). Двигатель запущен, включен указатель поворотов - мигает яркая спираль (21вт). Для того чтобы наши двухцветные девайсы работали надо отключить дневные ходовые огни (штатные) чтобы при заведенном двигателе не горела яркая спираль совместно с габаритной.
Из прочитанного: способ первый - отключить разъем который находится около аккумулятора (у себя не нашел) и (или) отсоединить провод (серый) от реле поворотов который питает ДХО. (в теме есть ссылка на "вражеский форум" где есть картинка с проводами).
Только нужно из разъема выдергивать не толстый серый провод, а тонкий который на фото (с форума ) не видно. Поэтому описываю весь процесс отключения ДХО.
1. Отвинчиваем и снимаем (опускаем) переднюю панель под рулем.
2. Сняв панель ищем интересующий разъем (фото)
3. Вынимаем из колодки (обрезаем, перекусываем) тонкий серый провод - 5 (справа налево) - см Фото.
4. Собираем все в обратном порядке.
5. Ставим светодиоды, предварительно установив нагрузочные сопротивления в цепь поворотников, и наслаждаемся полученным результатом
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Автор: Игорь444
На мойке машины вся грязь летит в кузов!Уплотнители между задним бортом и крыльями отсутствуют! Кто что делал?
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Автор: MIG
Вот ссылка на Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Power-Window-Function-Upgrade-Auto-One-Touch-Closer-Control-System-/200994022311?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255
Вот что искать в принципе - если ссылка испортится: Universal Power Window Function Upgrade Auto One Touch Closer Control System
А вот что это такое:
И как это работает:
Это универсальная система для управления стеклами в одно касание
Описание:
Модернизирует управление стеклоподьемника - теперь можно открывать и закрывать окно одним быстрым касанием Подходит для всех автомобилей без данной функции Одна штука - на одно окно Это универсальная штуковина, не ОЕМ Features:
Easy to install with broad applications:
The device is small in size and can be directly connected to exsiting window switch wires. It automatically adapts to the working current and work with any type of cars with power windows. Вы можете запустить систему, используя оригинальные переключатели автомобиля : нажмите кнопку для 0,1-0,5 секунд, чтобы включить автоматическое закрытие/открытие рабочий режим . Стекло автоматически остановится , когда окно достигает верх / низ . Можно прервать операцию посредством приведения в действие переключателя в противоположном направлении . При нажатии кнопки в течение более 0,5 секунд, система возобновит ручной режим. To protect the device, the system will stop supplying power to the window immediately under following situations: window motor overload, window motor has worked over 6 seconds under auto mode, window motor has worked over 8 seconds under manual mode. This can protect the power window system against damage from being inadvertently forced to operate for too long. This safety feature also works as a strong protection for the battery, wire,switch, and window motor of your car's power window system. Reasons to use this auto one touch winder control unit:
Convenience. Open or close window with just one quick touch. Safety driving. Shorten your hand's time on the switch during driving. Installation:
Red: Connect to"12" power line
Black: Connect to the"－"ground wire
Blue: Connect to the ascending switch line
Green: Connect to the descending switch line
White: Connect to the ascending motor line
Yellow: Connect to the descending motor line
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Автор: MIG
Оригинал - на tundratalk http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/exterior-mods/100571-2007-09-2010-12-grill-conversion.html
Нашел Игорь Каменск
Tools required, 10mm socket, extension, ratched and trimm removal kit($5 from harbour freigth). You will notice on the pics that I put tape on part of the hood that surround the grill to avoid scratches
Received my new grill this morning from TRDSparks and decided to go ahead and installed
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Since I was using a plastic trim remmover, I didn't put tape to protect the chrome. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
This are the screws under the plastic cover, remove them using the 10mm socket. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
Open the hood and remove the 2 screws holding the hood latch. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Now remove all 10 screws holding the grill This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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put them on a safe place This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
There are 2 clips on the side of the grill that need to be remove in order to remove the grill. Mine were so old that they just snap broken. No pics of removal. But no worries. The new grill come with new clips. Now just remover the old grill. Now remove the brackets that hold the grill
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Push the tabs in on the clip to remove bracket This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Your hood will look like this now. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
Now remove the old plastic nuts that help hold the grill with the screws This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Now install the new grill holders This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Now install the new brackets. The brackets come with new holding tabs This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Make sure that you clean the hood and take all the stickers on the brackets. You can see that the new brackets are smaller so they weigth less, less dirt on the hood shaves weigth also, so this mod will guarantee more MPG and faster times at the track This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
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Now all is left is, snap the new grill in place and bolt everything back. This mod is a 1 out of 5 in difficulty. Which means that even TRD-X can do it
Final results
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Автор: MIG
Боремся с скрипом рессор!
За идею - респект Delphi
Периодически появлялся скрип рессор, что для данного автомобиля не допустимо. По началу боролся забрызгивание ВД-шки, но эффект не долгий, максимум неделя. Было решено поменять антискрипные пластины.
Были приобретены 2 комплекта противоскрипов от Волги.
Из комплекта нам нужно 4 противоскрипа ( на фото обведены красным)
Далее расклиниваем рессору:
После чего вытаскиваем остатки старого противоскрипа:
И вставляем новый:
Такую операцию проделываем с остальными противоскрипами.
И вот оно. Тишина!
Цена вопроса: 14 гривен
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Автор: MIG
Air Lift Air Bag and Compressor InstallThis is my first post on TT as well as my first mod. Being a new member, I thought I would start off with a DIY. I posted this install on another forum but wanted to share it here as well. Enjoy!
I have a 2010 CM 5.7L 4x4 with factory tow package. The choice for air bags came down to either Firestone or Air Lift. Both kits are "no drill" installations and both increase "level load" capacity by 5000lbs. I went with Air Lift since AutoAnything was running a year-end 15% discount plus free shipping. In addition, Air Lift is offering a $100 factory rebate (ends 1/31/2012) when you combine the purchase of air bags (#57299) with any on-board compressor system (I chose #72000). Anyway, the incentive was too much to pass up so I ended up buying both.
Even though this is a "no drill" installation, you do need to cut the jounce bumper for clearance between the lower bracket and leaf spring. I’ve read on TT and other forums that some members simply remove the jounce bumper but on page 7 of the installation guide it states, "The jounce bumper has been cut to support the lower bracket. It will be necessary to draw the lower bracket into the jounce bumper using the u-bolts. This is an intentional way to mount the lower bracket." Not wanting to destroy a perfectly good part, I did a quick product search at McMaster-Carr and found a 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 12” length of neoprene rubber with a durometer rating of 75A (part# 1457T43)…about the same hardness as the soles on a pair of boots. I cut this into 2” sections, which is the width of the leaf springs. After removing the jounce bumper I noticed there was a bolt/nut hidden under the jounce assembly. I used my Bridgeport and a 3/4” end mill to create a blind hole in the center of my rubber block. Perfect fit!
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After assembling the upper and lower brackets, roll plate and 90* swivel air fitting, it was time to set the assembly onto the leaf spring. I used a pair of zip-ties to compress and hold the assembly during this placement. Even with all the air compressed out of the right-side bag, I was unable to fit the assembly in place due to insufficient clearance between the 90* air fitting and upper jounce bracket. I removed the air fitting and reattached it once the install was complete. It was not easy getting a wrench inside the frame to tighten this fitting but it can be done. The left-side bag went in as a complete assembly so maybe there was less load on that side…I don’t know but either way it was a tight fit. (Note: if you use the zip-tie technique, do not cut the ties until you have loosely mounted the upper bracket to the jounce bracket. The 90* swivel air fitting is fragile and you want to make sure it is lined up with the existing hole in the frame before releasing tension on the bags). Last thing to do is trim off the excess all-thread on the u-bolts.
Now that the bags are installed, it was time to mount the compressor. A lot of people install their compressor units inside the engine compartment but Air Lift recommends against using this location. I removed the spare tire and found a dry, well protected area along a cross member between the frame. I used a 90* electric drill with 6” drill bits to create the four mounting holes. It was a PITA to drill but I was very happy with the results. I installed the manifold on the frame just behind the left air bag next to the existing Toyota Fuel Controller. The wiring harness for the compressor was just long enough to reach the manifold, which needs to be less than 24”. The relay (attached to the wiring harness) was grounded to the mounting bolt behind the compressor along with two other grounding wires.
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The last step was to install the pneumatic lines and run power to the compressor system. I didn’t believe the push-to-connect fittings would work but to my surprise they seem to do the job and were easy-peasy to install. Only had one leak which required re-seating the tubing into the fitting and it was fixed.
The instruction guide calls for running the positive lead of the wiring harness to the fuse box. Since I have the tow package I knew there was a +12V power source somewhere under the truck. I located the trailer battery charging line and used a butt splice to make the connection. Make sure you check which wire has power before tapping into it (turn key ignition to ACC).
The leader hose that comes pre-connected is “Air Out” and goes to the manifold. With the compressor mounted so high up and protected by the spare tire, I simply screwed my filter directly into the body of the pump, eliminating any extra fittings and tubing. This will also make for easy filter changes in the future.
Here's a pic of the mounting bolts for the manifold (seen from the outside) as well as the manual fill schrader air valve (black cap).
As a final note, the Air Lift instruction guide is a joke. The hole-pattern templates were completely wrong for both the compressor and manifold. I used a center punch to mark my holes before drilling. That said, it is an awesome system. Finally, if you remove the jounce bumper, the factory torque spec for the rear spring u-bolt is 74 ft-lb and should be tighten in a crisscross pattern. If you have aluminum wheels, the torque spec is 97 ft-lb.
-- Brian/ale
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Автор: Игорь Каменск
При установке 2" лифта сзади, при резком свале колеса в яму, хода амортизатора не хватает, и получаете неприятный стук. Пока не приобретены амортизаторы под лифт, проблему на это время можно решить так, или ездить дальше с этой переделкой Точится наставыш на шток, втулка, и собирается удлиненный амортизатор. Сделал себе сам, пробег около 4000км. полет нормальный В чертежах нет шайбы, которая видна на установленном амортизаторе, толщина ее 2мм. Выбиралась путем подбора ее внутреннего диаметра, под диаметр удлинителя штока амортизатора.
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